Thursday 25 September 2014

Flyer-Sized Urban Rubble Bases: Part 2, the paint.

In Part 1 (find it here), we looked at the construction. Here in part 2, we will cover a very simple paint job. To start, the bases are given a spray primer undercoat. The trick, shown in picture 2, is getting the spray so spatter ever so gently and to not have a single flat surface coat. This means that there is more area for paint to stick to, which will prevent paint peeling later on, as resin, even cleaned, is notorious for.



To basecoat, I used the airbrush, with a mix of Miniataire Charcoal Grey and Raven Black to create my dark grey. The GW equivalent which I tried to match, is Standard Mechanicum Grey. It's a fantastic colour, but I can get a lot more Miniataire ready to spray for the same cost.

 Blurrtastic.

Next, GW Leadbelcher was used on all the metal surfaces, and a mix of Sycorax Bronze and Auric Armour Gold was used for the shell casings.



Out come the weathering powders. I applied a fair bit of powder using a small brush. The green powder gives a moldy look which is just perfect for virus bombed Istvaan III, whilst the browns give a good mix of old and new rusts.



To seal it, I gently airbrushed a little acrylic thinners over the bases. This liquifies the pigment, which then sets in place. Do use low air if you do this, as it can blow it all away. If you don't have an airbrush, just gently touch the areas with some white spirits, and the spirits will flow into the pigments and seal them. Always remember to semi-gloss or gloss varnish the pigments after for a good seal.


After the pigments, I gently drybrushed (yes, that horrible painters curse word) the bases, just to add a little definition to the greys. This was a very subtle step.


Finally, I picked out the details such as the little skulls on the bases and the light fitting. I used this time to apply some rust effects (some Secret Weapon Rust Brown powder mixed with a little blazing orange) and applied with a sponge.





The results:







I hope you enjoyed this tutorial, please let me know if you did,

~Macca

4 comments:

  1. James,
    Found your blog through secret weapons facebook page. Just wanted to say you base execution is really inspirational. It's nice to see how you can really flare up the bases with just a bit of work to make even the resin ones extremely unique and utterly fantastic to look at. Keep up the great work!

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    Replies
    1. Cheers Greg, nice to hear your input. It can be a bit boring, even with resin bases, if you use the same one throughout, so you have to find ways to modify them in order to get some real flavour in my mind. That's what this is all about, giving tips on how I personally take an existing product and change it up. The paint job is just a good example to provide on the side.

      Glad you enjoy the work mate, I look forward to hearing more feedback in the future.

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    2. Do you generally do the bases first, then the models? That is how I usually keep myself inspired. Having the base done usually pushes me to finish the model...so I can show off the base :).

      I also really liked your water effects with the blood spreading through it. Just excellent tips there. Going to loot a bit of that for my ork/daemon forces bases!

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    3. Honestly, it depends. If I have all the bases and no models, I will generally do them first. Normally, I am more in love with the models, so I will pump them out first before mass producing the bases.

      Glad you liked the blood effects, they are something different. Normally, I paint the Bone Fields without blood and gore throughout, but in order to show something different, that's the approach I took.

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