G’day folks,
Toby here again.
While I wait
for my AL to arrive in the mail, I thought I’d add my 5 cents on base creation
and do a rundown on how I make mine.
I’ll punch it out in one post so I won’t put up pics for each step just
the big ones. The base itself will be a
bit of a rocky wasteland but the same basic painting techniques can be used to
make it anything from forest to urban.
All you’ll need to change is the garnishing.
The
tutorial's divided into 3 sections, Initial Construction, Painting and Finishing
Touches.
Initial
construction of the base.
Materials
you’ll need:
- Bases
- Corkboard tiles
- Superglue
- PVA glue
- Sands of varying coarseness
1. Take the corkboard and break it up into little
pieces of different sizes, I keep only 1 side flat (the side that will be
getting glued down) and rough up all the other sides to give it a natural
appearance.
2.
Using 1 or 2 bigger bits of corkboard per base superglue them flat side
down. I’d recommend preplanning this
with the positioning of the miniature you intend on using the base on.
3. Lay down a decent coat of PVA over the rest
of the base, put a dot or 2 onto the cork so some sand sticks to it, then
sprinkle some much smaller cork pieces around on the PVA, make sure these are a
little bit bigger than the sand you’re using.
4. Now quickly move the base to your sand box
and thickly coat it, leaving it in there until the PVA dries.
Painting the
base.
Paints:
- GW White Undercoat Spray
- Rhinox Hide (GW)
- Steel Legion Drab (GW)
- Rhakarth Flesh (GW)
- Basalt Grey (Vallejo) (Same as GW Dawnstone)
- White
- Nuln Oil (GW Black ink)
And a
selection of inks:
- Athonian Camoshade
- Biel tan Green
- Seraphim Sepia
- Agrax Earthshade
1. Undercoat the base white.
2. Basecoat the cork (large stones) basalt grey
and the sand Rhinox Hide. I suggest
lightly watering down the grey and reasonably watering down the Rhinox. Because of the white base it might take
several coats but will look alot more vibrant than if you’d done a black one.
3. Heavy drybrush the sand with Steel Legion
Drab, you don’t want to obscure the Rhinox but want a good highlight to it.
4. Take all your washes apart from black and dab
them onto the grey one at a time to create a mottled effect, it will look pretty
full on at this stage but it tones down later.
Ensure you let all the washes dry before moving onto the next step.
5. Water down some black ink and wash the entire
base, sands and rocks.
6. Once the black ink is dry, drybrush the rocks
with Basalt grey so that the inks still show through but the borders of each is
blended into the whole. Then using
Rhakarth Flesh drybrush the entire base, this draws the whole base together
with a common colour.
7. Very, very lightly drybrush a few edges of
the stones with white, choose ridges and places where the light would naturally
catch.
8. Lastly paint the rim of the base in your
chosen colour.
The
finishing touches.
Materials
needed:
- Secret Weapon shell casings
- Your choice of vegetation and garnishing’s. I use MiniNatur and Gale Force 9. I’m going for a bit of a blasted wasteland look, so chose darker, drier looking grasses.
- Matte Varnish.
1. Lightly coat the bases with matte varnish.
2. Superglue a few tufts of the MiniNatur grass
on, I keep it around the base of the larger rocks so it looks like it’s growing
from beneath them.
3. Spread out some decent patches of PVA over
the sand and dip the base into your flock container.
4. Once everything's dry, or not if you’re
impatient like me, take several pre-painted shell casings (see below) and attach
them to the base with a tiny bit of superglue.
Run a little line of gold down the top edge as a highlight. As far as placement goes for them, try to
think where they’d naturally end up after being ejected, they probably won’t be
balancing on top of that rock, but might be in the cracks between the two.
The shell
casings:
2. Put all 50 of them into the bottom of base or
some other lipped container.
3. I used a watered down Vallejo Brass, loaded
my brush up with paint and roughly stirred up the casings. I did this about 3 times until they were all
coated with paint. Make sure you do
water your paint down or you’ll lose some of the detail in the rear of the
cartridges.
4. Tip them onto a piece of plasticard and separate
them all to dry. Once dry wash them all
with a black ink and they’re good to go.
Thanks, great tutorial. I would have glued down each individual shell casing and then painted them. Painting them together makes much more sense!
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