Wednesday, 3 September 2014

Power Armour

Hi guys,

Spraggy here. Not to dilute the Warhammer 30K waters of keepy's blog with anything 40K, but I've been wanting to show my latest extravagant project off. Maybe actually sharing it on keepy's blog might help me to finish it off.

Now i am by no means a committed cosplayer, but i have always wanted to build my own suit of Astartes Armour. Not powered by any means like the fictional descriptions but nonetheless to scale and gimmicky enough to just simply be.......awesome.

The suit is being made out of roughly 12mm floor foam, the kind you buy cheap from bunnings, which is good because there is heaps required to make the suit. I've opted to build my suit just over 7 feet tall. Not quite the proper height for an Astartes but it will be tall enough to be imposing. I made this decision because i want to keep high dexterity with my hands, which meant i had to keep my arms in proportion with the height. any taller and my arms would look too much like T-rex paws.


The main reason for this is because of my custom designed bolter. As i intend the first version of the armour to be a sternguard veteren, my bolter had to be the shiz. To achieve this i'm using some tricky electronics in it to make it laser sighted with an electronic trigger with realistic .65 cal sound effects...as loud as i can get!! It will be scoped with removable magazine, electronic round counter(hopefully).....and cowbell.

Currently i have shaped and formed the curaiss and plackart. They are requiring an internal skeleton to be made so that it sits on my frame (it is cavernous inside!!). This will also allow me to attacth the other pieces to the body. Ive also built the base of the helm and started fitting it with electronics. Namely the lit eyepieces and the mic and speaker for the vox. Other fancy bits will be going in but are for another day.

Next on the agenda is to build the legs which will be stilted.....and huge.

A Galaxy In Flames Tutorial: Secret Weapon Bases- Wetlands

G'day folks, Macca here, and today I bring you a new tutorial type: Secret Weapon Bases. The idea behind this tutorial is to show those of you who are curious how to paint a variety of different bases, in this case in pre-cast resin.

To start with, I picked one of my favourites, wetlands. There is nothing new and groundbreaking to see here about painting wetlands, but that's not the point, the point it how I can show you some basic ways to get these effects.

The Prep.

I started by gently sanding the mold overflow off the base edges, and then I washed the bases and gave them a quick undercoat with some Tamiya Light Grey primer. The idea is to just get some spray on, not to coat the entire base, as if you do so, then your base will be smooth and paint won't adhere as well. By misting on the spray, you create tiny variations in the surface texture, which will provide increased surface area, and thus, more for the paint to stick to.


Next, I lightly coated the base in an Army Painter green spray. This is the base coat I will use, as I want a nice swampy wetland. As I have several bases on the go, the one to look at here is on the left ;)


The Paint Scheme.

Next, I applied some Games Workshop 'Nurgles Rot' technical paint in the lowest areas of the base. This is to represent a sort of algae growing on the base. From there, I did a small black line around the edge of the base, and painted the log in GW 'Steel Legion Drab' base paint.


I now mixed GW 'Nurgling Green' layer with the 'Steel Legion Drab', and simply drybrushed the Log and the base in the areas where there was no algae.


The Scenics.

I now get out my bits of terrain and scenics from my little basing box of goodness. This box contains bark, twigs, sand, flock, resin, etched brass etc, and I find it a great little thing to keep around. Now, in this case, I'm using some fine twigs, from Hornby, as well as the wetlands basing kit from Secret Weapon, the sames guys who provided these bases.


First, I gather some of the twigs, and roll them together into a small bundle. From there, I cut the end off flat, dip it into some craft glue, and 'roll' the twigs between my fingers in order to help set the craft glue and keep a tight bundle.




Next, I end up with this. I decided that some smaller bundles would work better, so I simply cut this bundle in half. I then cut it down in length, providing me with a pair of 1/2 inch (about 12mm) lengths. I then gently trimmed the shrubs so that they are more ragged, as flat-top shrubs aren't true to nature, and thus look wrong to the eye.





From here, I again, dip the end into some craft glue, and apply the shrub to the base.



Now that I have my bushes in place, I apply a little super glue around some sections of the log, and place some of the foam shrubs around the log and shrubs.


I also took this opportunity to cut down the shrub on the left slightly, as I felt they were too identical.


After applying some more foam, this was the end result.




The Water.

Out comes my Secret Weapon 'Realistic Water'. This stuff is so superior to Games Workshop wet effects that it's not funny. It flows like water too, so it's easy to coat the base. The down side is, that you can only apply it in thin layers, and as it sets it will shrink slightly, so you will have to do multiple layers to finish a base. If you're doing large-volume work, I suggest using a clear resin.


There is nothing hard about this stage, you just apply the 'water' in little beads from the dropper bottle, and keep a toothpick handy to pop any air bubbles. The result is nice and simple:




Result:

Once dried, this is the end result:




I love the algae look in the bottom of the base, I think this would look great with some Heresy-era Death Guard strolling through it.

So there you have it, Secret Weapon Bases- Wetlands. This is the first in a 9-part series I have planned, so if you like the article and would like to see the rest of the series, let me know,

Macca

Tuesday, 2 September 2014

Ferrus Manus, The Gorgon: Part 2

So, Ferrus Manus. This one actually tried my patience. Basically, the flash, and the quality of the model was far worse then the other Primarchs I own meant that I was in a rotten mood the whole time. Anyway, in the end, here he is.





It's important to point out that the model is painted differently to my other Primarchs. Where Horus is a poster boy, Lorgar is standing in a ritual and Angron is charging into battle, this model is worn out. He is in the midst of the worst fighting on Istvaan V, and I tried to paint him to represent this. I tried to use a 'greasy' tone on his flesh, as if he has exerted himself and even his Primarch physiology is tired, so he's sweaty, and his skin is darker, not just tanned, but stained with dirt and sweat.






Anyhoo, that's Ferrus Manus, I hope you enjoy,

~Macca

Monday, 1 September 2014

Ferrus Manus, The Gorgon: Part 1

Hi. Nothing more interesting as an introduction, as this model has sapped my soul in construction. I spent nearly twice as long on this model as any other Primarch, and easily comparable time to a f#$ing Storm Eagle. Sigh, Forge World, I can live with the bad mold slip, but instructions go a long way.


Since Forge World didn't supply the kit with in instructions, I made my own. Simply read the sprue, cut the part you need, and glue them in in this way.




Ferrus' servo harness was designed by Satan, blessed by Hitler, bathed in the blood of virgins by Genghis Khan....  no, not really, I just had to do a lot of fine cutting with a scalpel due to the poor quality of the casting. Basically, the flash was at failcast levels, and it took me about an hour to finish off the harness assembly.

Ok, moving on to happier things, you glue the small bit of base that comes separate to the rest onto the edge of the releasable part of the base like so. From there, I drilled and included 3 2mm magnets into each half of the display base.



From here, I undercoated, base coated, and then used Tamiya Clear Blue to get a glossy blue finish on the black armour. I did this because black armour is boring, and I wanted to get an oily wet feel to it.



After about 3 hours of painting many many tiny metallic details, as well as doing the arms, I ended up here.




From here, I have to paint the base and the face of Ferrus, but you have seen numerous tutorials dealing with that of late, and as Ferrus' base is pretty simple, just sand and dead marines, I won't bore you with the details. Well, that's all for now, next time you see Ferrus, he will be complete!

~Macca