Keepy here again, this time with Part Two of our Ezekyle Abaddon WIP progress. If you missed the first part you can find it here.
So the airbrush highlighting has been done, and Abaddon is ready for some detail. The chipping was done first - unfortunately I didn't get a pic of just that stage but you will see it in some detail in the next few photos. Chipping is done VERY sparsely around edges you think will see a bit of use, for example the front of boots, the cornices of the armour, forearm guards, and the leg grieves. The Abaddon model has battle damage modelled into it so make sure you pay attention to those areas as well. To do the chipping, grab a piece of sponge (like the ones that used to come in the back of blister packs will do great). Tear a corner off so you get a raggedy edge that is uneven - if you apply with a flat sponge you get a flat glop on your model. Then gently dab the corner you tore off into your paint. I prefer to thin my paint in water on a palate, as direct from the pot tends to dry quickly and leave big dollops of paint of your model. You then gently dab the sponge on the model over the previously mentioned surfaces.
Abaddon was done in two layers, one of straight GW Mechanicum Grey, and one of the old GW Fortress Grey. The Mechanicum Grey was done a lot heavier than the Fortress, as it blends well with what is now effectively grey armour. The two colours compliment each other and layer very easily. Like the airbrush highlighting - less is more. Don't go too overboard as it is the suttle details that will really make your model pop.
Next was the detail of the model. The red on the shoulder pads and knee was done prior to highlighting, and was done in a couple layers of the old GW Mechrite Red. The shoulder pads were then finished off with a thin coat of Tamiya Clear Red, not only does it give an awesome colour but also gives the illusion of depth as well. The black was left showing towards the edges to give the impression of shading. The gold was done in the old GW Shining Gold, which was done in 2-3 thinned layers, with the extreme edges highlighted sparingly with GW Runefang Steel. The rivets were done with GW Leadbelcher, and highlighted with Runefang Steel, as were the claws on the powerfist. The sword was done with straight Runefang, and all the cabling / metal components were done with Leadbelcher. The red pteruges (the leather looking straps hanging around the pauldrons and off the centre of the belt) started with a base of GW Evil Sunz Scarlet highlighted with GW Wild Rider Red. The Eye of Horus (or 6?) all were done with about 5 layers starting with red working up to bright yellow highlights.
Starting to take shape now!
Once all your detail has been done it is time for the fun part - oil washes. Macca has briefly covered how to make an oil wash here. Before you apply your oil wash, you need to seal all that detail you have just put on and create a surface conducive to the application of oil. On a matte surface, oil wash will tend to soak into the model, and act like an acrylic shade. But on a gloss / semi-gloss surface, it tries to find the recesses and does not really stick to flat surfaces. I has a capillary like action where if you dab a bit of a loaded brush it will follow all the seams for you. So after mixing up a black oil wash, it was applied to all the seams and rivets, taking care not to get it on flat surfaces. This is NOT an all over wash, you have to take your time - and believe me it is worth it. Because the model is effectively a dark grey from the airbrush overspray from highlighting, a black wash actually pops on black armour. Check Abaddon out with a black wash!
Really makes the detail pop, doesn't it? Well worth your efforts to stay nice and neat. The benefits to oils vs acrylic washes are great too. With acrylic, once it is on, it is on. There is no being able to take it off the model. With oil, if I get a cotton bud / ear cleaner (or cue tip) with a bit of artist's turps (sort of like mineral turpentine but without the bad smell) and give the area a gentle wipe, and hey presto, mistake gone. Here is a shot from the back:
You can also see the chipping on the back of the grieves a bit better from this shot. The Cthonian markings were done with a white oil wash and after leaving him 24hrs to dry (this is to make sure he is absolutely dry or the clear coat will react to the oil and not set) give your model a couple coats of flat clear. I use Testors Dullcote but Tamiya Clear Flat works just as well. This takes the glossy sheen off the model and also sets on your oil, chipping and painting so far.
Well that will do for this post, on the next instalment we shall have a look at the finished product, and let me assure you this turned out a lot better than I expected!
Till next time